by JR
15. May 2010 18:34
A candid --- if unfortunately a bit of a downer -- blog update from mount Everest base camp 17,700 feet: a tough week on the health front for JR :-(
Despite some rumors swirling about the Himalayas, the lack of blog updates for the past week was not due to another kidnapping incident involving spike, me or any other team members. But due to some health issues it has been a puzzling and challenging week since we descended from our climb up the incredibly steep and icy Lhotse face to camp three about 9 days ago: we got within sight of the lower part of camp 3 at about 23,000 feet when extremely high winds and cold forced us to return to camp two at 21,000 feet that afternoon.
The next morning, 5 of the 8 team members and one guide climbed back down from camp 2 to Everest base camp [EBC], as the first stage of our normal [6-8 week !] acclimization schedule. After the 'second rotation' up the mountain to camp 3 at about 23,500 feet, the schedule calls for a week or so hike back down the Khumbu valley to several of the villages at lower altitude [12,000 - 16,000 feet] that we had stayed in a month earlier on the trek to EBC. This process of spending a week of 'R&R' soaking up the 'rich' oxygen at the 12-14,000 level has proven a successful method of preparing for the final summit assault.
As I have written before, four elements control a successful summit of a mountain like Everest [no matter one's preparation]: health, luck, weather and all that falls under the uncertain 'human element' [accidents, mistakes, equipment breakdowns, etc]. In our team's case, we have had good overall health with a few sporadic outbreaks of one thing or another [life over 17000 feet takes its toll for sure] and 8 of our original 9 are still climbing.
In my case, I was fortunately doing great --- spike was doing even better ! --- on both the health and climbing fronts for the entire expedition..... Until the night about a week or so ago when we got back down to EBC from camp 3 and out of nowhere---wham !!--- I got nailed with a major truly dreadful GI Attack that totally wiped me out [these bugs are rampant in the Khumbu]. To make a long and unhappy story short, the Everest base camp doctors --a very busy team indeed -- gave me a choice of going on IV's or immediately heading back down much lower [to Kathmandu...by helicopter] for 4--5 days of recovery. Since our team was about to head lower anyway for the scheduled normal 'fallback' respite, and since two other team members were fighting various ailments themselves, three of us decided to share a helicopter ride back down with a sick sherpa and see if we couldn't all recover quickly in the lower [3500-4000 foot] altitude of Kathmandu.
Two and a half days ago--with Don and Derek feeling great from the KTM respite but with me thankfully finally recovered from a lingering infected thumb problem [nothing seems to heal well at high altitudes] but still limping along with some bug I couldn't totally shake--- we flew back and rejoined our teammates in Lobuche at about 15,500 feet to spend the day and night before hiking the 6 hours or so back to EBC. Unfortunately that night I got hit with a second GI Attack, which has left me in a very tough predicament and currently uncertain as to my next move as I feel both so lousy and weak at the same time: not a great
combination!
The EBC head doctor was surprised when I stopped by the Everest clinic yesterday after hiking in from Lobuche as he said he felt it very unlikely I should or would come back to base camp after the first GI episode. Needless to say, he [Dr. Peter Hackett from Colorado, considered the world's foremost altitude medical expert] has real reservations about the wisdom of and chances for success of a summit bid at this point after what he says is simply the awful luck of getting hit with two miserable bugs back to back...but the decision is mine to make.
So what am I going to do? As I write this update, the worst of this second bug has now just about passed so I am going to spend another night weighing everything that I can and looking at all the options before making a decision as to what course of action to take. After nearly seven tough, challenging and incredible weeks with a fantastic climbing, support and guiding team in one of the world's most unique environments, having to leave this challenge unfinished with about two weeks to go, is in some ways unbearable. Especially since I [and everyone else] really do feel if I can get my health and strength back [I've lost over 20 pounds in the last month...so anyone looking for a 'quick' weight loss program, just come to Nepal !!] That I can climb this very big hill just as I found a way to get up all the others!!
But as a life-long investment manager, risk management and getting the odds in one's favor have always been the most important factors in short and long term success, and they will be the key factors in the decision I make in the next day or two: so please switch your prayers and support to helping me make the right decision ! I promised mom --and myself and others! :-) --- that I would simply give this Everest attempt my very best shot and not do anything [too!] stupid, as I have a lot on my plate to dig into in coming years. So far I feel I have given it everything I've got and have been safe and smart in doing so. That will remain my motto going forward....but candidly, as I write this, I am having real problems coming to grips with this decision, as unlike golf, I'm not sure I can reach into my bag and declare a mulligan !
Stay tuned and thanks for all your support and encouragement.
JR