MOUNT EVEREST SUMMIT 'CONCESSION' UPDATE

by JR 17. May 2010 14:40

With great disappointment, I am reporting that Mount Everest has trounced JR on this round and I've made the decision that discretion is the better part of valor in this current case. So I'm now in the process of heading home after a truly amazing and challenging 7 weeks in the shadow of the world’s greatest mountain. Without going into too many needless details or excuses at this point,  two back-to-back bug attacks within ten days really set my system back for several days each and sent me in Kathmandu both to a Western medical clinic and then 2 days later to a Nepali hospital --- not a fun experience as ‘Obama-care’ has definitely NOT made it to Nepal yet !  ;-).  Though the antibiotics kicked in, after a lot of soul searching and discussion,  I had to conclude the setback to my conditioning and preparation was just too much at this point to take on the serious physical challenge of a 7 – 10 day summit effort with any likely chance of a safe and successful effort Up and Down this most challenging of all mountains. The very intrepid remaining 7 of our team’s original 9 climbers launched from base camp today with a ten+ hour climb to Camp Two …..while I am pretty sure I could have handled that climb even in less than best shape, I just had too many doubts about the ensuing huge summit attempt over the next ten days  [the crux of the whole climb], given both my situation and conditions over 20,000 feet. You can follow their daily progress on the Alpine Ascents website: www.alpineascents.com. From Camp Two they will now wait for a weather window to open and when they get that, I expect we’ll see all 7 with their 4 terrific AAI guides and ten Sherpas on top of the world !

 

The smallish ‘good news’ in all this for all ZAG and SPIKE fans, is that while I will not be on this select summit team, SPIKE himself is going to make the summit, as he has found a new climbing partner: my good friend and  AAI guide Garrett Madison ! J   If I may be forgiven for one more pitch for Gonzaga’s outstanding ‘Zags in Zambia’ African educational and service program, for anyone who would like their own photo poster of the crazily fun ‘SPIKE as KING KONG ‘saving’ JR’ [see blog photo below], just send Joe Poss at GU an email notification that you have [or will] made a donation to the Zambia endowment fund, and Joe will make sure you get a copy this summer [and you can also just let him know you are supporting one of our other three terrific non-profits on the web site, and that will also ‘qualify’ for a SPIKE memento poster too !  ;-) ]:  poss[at]gonzaga.edu

 

OK: for those of you interested in more ‘color’ on my tough decision ----gosh, do I just hate to quit on anything …..grrrrr….. and sure can’t recall having to ever do so in an athletic challenge..….certainly not with anything I had dedicated myself to for so long, and certainly not so publicly ! ----  let me just copy a wonderful email sent by my super daughter in law Jessica Rudolf, as she pretty much nailed my thinking process over the past two days [as did many others who wrote emails and blog comments].  Gosh, I am just blown away by all the fantastic support, insights, encouragement and great friendship of so many of you: THANK YOU ALL for your support and prayers…I’ll respond individually in coming weeks when life ‘settles down’ !  :-)

 

  

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Dad,

Sorry to hear that you have been sick and are not in your best state right now.

I think you should follow your gut instincts.  No one can tell you what to do in this situation - only YOU know your body and your limits.

Regardless of if you summit or not, you're living the "Everest experience" right now. You've been there since March, have hiked pretty much to camp 3 and have done all of the various hikes on the way to the summit, the ice fall, etc.

Ask yourself this: would summiting really change my experience or enhance it at this point? what will I gain from actually reaching the summit?

is the trek and the stress on my body to summit really worth it considering I'm not in tip top condition?

 

you can come home in one piece and say that you've hiked Everest and lived up in the Himalayan mountains for two months-- while raising funds and bringing awareness to your various charities. No one else we know has ever done such a wonderful thing.

 

if you come home now, no one will blame you. but as you say, luck needs to be on your side to make a summit attempt. if you're not feeling your best, well, then you're luck has escaped you and take it as a sign to come back.  

 

but if you decide to summit, then we will support you and will know that you made that decision because you're feeling up to it and can hack it.

 

we support you no matter what as long as you eventually come back to us ;)

 

MUCH LOVE -- keep us posted.

xo

jess

 

 

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Thanks, Jessica, Daughter-in-Law # 1  …ok,  you’re my only one at this point…but still # 1  !   J    I guess you summed the decision-making process and situation up very well  [as did James' email, and many others…..it has been amazing to see  the incredible support from so many this crazy adventure has generated].  Very reluctantly, I’ve decided to not try for the summit and am now trying to work on leaving Nepal and Kathmandu …. but all flights go through Bangkok so will be interesting to see how that goes as I need to overnight in Bangkok ! Will keep everyone posted….not emotionally easy to switch gears after 7 weeks pounding away so hard on a mountain adventure that has so suddenly ended……I sure won’t miss living in a tent at such altitude [and cold!] all these weeks but I am sure going to miss the actual hiking and climbing among the world’s biggest mountains ……darn !!

 

Dad

-------------

 

 

OK….back to my blog comments:  for those still following along, I’m going to stop moping about and feeling sorry for myself….soon !  Yes, this is certainly a huge disappointment.  I was - and am – amazed how long and challenging this whole adventure has been, and have no adequate way of expressing just how much everyone who takes this effort on puts into it, as each person at Everest Base Camp has their own unique story and mission: my respect and admiration is so deep for my phenomenal teammates and for all those I know who have taken this challenge on in years’ past.  But I have been incredibly blessed and just flat out lucky with an amazing run of sometimes crazy but very meaningful adventures and activities over the past half dozen years; from a famous unique Greenland adventure with my son John; to climbing 7 of the ‘8’ “7 Summits” [yes, now with a rather BIG hole on that resume !  ;-) ]; to a huge climb of The Matterhorn…..still my toughest specific climb; and many other climbs, hikes, bikes, kayaks, triathlons,  etc  with  fantastic companions in the States, Alps, and elsewhere  around the world; to some great personally meaningful trips to Africa and South America involving some of my favorite causes. On top of all that, I am really blessed with a remarkably big, interesting and challenging [everything in my life seems quite challenging ! ;-) ] family….. plus an internationally diverse group of friends, clients and associates; plus very interesting projects and activities --- and a most challenging and active professional career trying to stay ‘alive’ in the shark-infested financial markets ! ….All of which combined keep me quite engaged on a near 24 – 7 basis….and what else can one ask for in life ?   

 

Forgive me if this is all too personal and reflective: I guess sitting down at this computer terminal in Kathmandu is a cathartic healing process which I candidly needed after truly feeling very depressed and sorry for myself for this big setback over the past 24 hours. After writing all this and making just a partial listing of all the many wonderful people and things in my life ----I suggest all of you go ahead and do the same thing yourself right now !!  J  ---   I’ve ‘cleared my head’ [a good deal anyway!] and am now ready to stop moping about, graciously accept that I truly believe I made the ‘smart and correct’ decision [at least intellectually], grant Mount Everest/Chomolungma the Respect and Due SHE truly deserves,  thank the Good Lord for a fantastic and safe adventure of a lifetime…..and start moving forward again emotionally and physically. I believe on this website, some clever fellow has written the slogan/motto; “CARPE DIEM” : so I’m going to pick myself up and do my very best to put that most important admonition to personal daily work once again as I now pack my climbing gear and head home to return to ‘normal’ life, get back to work, and find and take on other activities and challenges …..but for awhile at least. I think I’ll set my overly ambitious sights a tad bit lower than the world’s biggest mountain !!

 

Thanks to all for following me on this adventure, and for your incredible support, encouragement, prayers and friendship !  NOW for the next two weeks:  let’s all switch our efforts to following and supporting my former climbing buddy SPIKE and my seven AAI teammates as they tackle their most daunting challenge: safely making and returning from the Mount Everest summit !

 

Best wishes to all !

 

JR  

 

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Comments

5/18/2010 3:03:59 AM #

John,
Tremendous effort and nothing less than outstanding.  As humbling as it might seem to come home now, you have completed an amazing journey … perhaps just the first one of other attempts Smile.  From now on, the mountain and its people will be always part of you.  Get well soon.

Looking forward to seeing you again.
-Humberto

Humberto Acevedo United States | Reply

5/18/2010 3:31:30 AM #

"You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again. So why bother in the first place? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher up. When one can no longer see, one can at least still know." - Rene Daumal

The Zags in Zambezi group that is in Africa right now and just went to church with Fr. Dominic and played basketball against the local high school team yesterday applaud your effort.  We respect that you have "seen."

Joe

Joe Matelich United States | Reply

5/18/2010 3:37:30 AM #

John,
We've all been praying for you to make the right decision.  Trust your gut and have no regrets.  "To get back down safely is mandatory."  You have accomplished more than many of us could ever dream.  Thank you for sharing this amazing experience with us.
Mary

Mary Hsue United States | Reply

5/18/2010 3:49:55 AM #

With us ever pushing forward in our fast paced society, I constantly remind myself, it is not about the destination, it is about the journey.  Your journey around the world has given you a wonderful perspective that few will ever know.  Perhaps not summiting will give you the greatest journey yet.  Sorry it wasn't what you thought, but I am so glad you are coming home!  Cannot wait to see you.
Lot's of love-
Dr. Hoyt (Mother of Dr. No and her sidekick Dr. Never)

Lisa Hoyt United States | Reply

5/18/2010 4:05:15 PM #

Thanks for letting us all be part of your incredible journey! This is surely the closest I'll ever come to experiencing anything like this! In many ways, your climb was just like most of life - things don't always turn out the way you'd like, but you just brush yourself off and move on and try to learn from each experience. I'm sure you learned a lot about yourself and others from your various climbs. While people have called you lots of names over the years, quitter will never be one of them! Have a safe trip home, and let yourself relax a little now. You deserve it!

Dave Goebel United States | Reply

5/18/2010 5:48:20 PM #

Safe travels home! Thank you so much for sharing your adventure via this blog. I think blogs are best when they're personal and reflective and full of the author's unique journey and perspective. There are so many blogs about making money or ranting politics, and few like this one

Bright Blessings to you and yours from everyone at our house. Smile

Resa United States | Reply

5/18/2010 6:41:40 PM #

Brother, we await your homecoming with big hearts. What an amazing effort you gave, inspiring us younger next year folks all over. It is the journey. Artists, writers, athletes keep relearning that every day. Love you.

Claire Rudolf Murphy United States | Reply

5/18/2010 6:53:43 PM #

It often takes more courage and fortitude to change course and forgo the targeted conquest and then learn from the effort , experience and attempt, than to proceed against all odds toward an outcome unknown. Your heart and mind provided the motivation to get to that point in time, on that mountain, in your life. And in all you've done and will do, you have "seized the day" as well as bought us along on this particular journey with this blog. I am greatful, thank you and happy trails, "vaya con dios" !

JR United States | Reply

5/18/2010 6:58:54 PM #

JR,

I've been following you for the past few weeks and, while I have to say that I was disappointed with the fact that I'll no longer get to look forward to your summit shots, I'm glad that wisdom got the better part of valor.  A sad irony that an imbalance of microbes stopped you from summiting the highest peak in the world, but it's inarguable to say that you've had an incredible journey--amazing experiences along the way.

I've probably turned back from more things than I've topped out.  Whether it's been whiteouts, freezing rain, technical difficulties, fear, fatigue, whatever--I'm glad I'm back on the ground and able to enjoy and appreciate what I do have.  It's been inspiring to watch you tackle such a great obstacle--thanks for sharing it with us.

I'll be in Seattle next week.  I hope that you make it back safely.  I'd love to get together.

Best,
Chris

Chris Potts United States | Reply

5/19/2010 8:33:03 PM #

JR,

I don't have much to add to what has already been said.  You made a logical, rational decision to stop; unfortunately, the head and heart often contradict one another.  It's ok to be bummed and have your own personal pity party for a little while.  Then you have to sit back and reflect upon everything you accomplished.  You saw parts of the world the vast majority of us will only see in pictures.  You met amazing people and worked as a team to push each other to heights (literally and figuatively) you hadn't achieved before.  With the kidnapping of Spike, you even had intrigue!  It was truly an adventure.  Thank you for sharing it with the rest of us.  

Ellen United States | Reply

5/19/2010 9:22:41 PM #

I have been following your quest since I read about it in the New York Times.  I don't know you but, I have been inspired by your drive and ability to take on one of the greatest and most unforgiving challenges that exists on this planet. I know it is likely that you feel you "failed" by deciding not to attempt the summit. However, in my eyes, you succeeded by trying.

Sharon United States | Reply

5/20/2010 12:30:12 AM #

John, your decision was the right one and it took courage and wisdom to make it. You'll always have forever what you did accomplish, the memories of dear friends, of the Sherpas, and the extraordinary beauty of the land itself.

Best wishes for your future.

Maggie in Macedonia (PCV)

maggie schneider United States | Reply

5/20/2010 2:57:13 AM #

John,

I've been following your progress since you first decided to embark on this incredible adventure.  As someone who has spent a brief time climbing with you, I can say without hesitation that your team mates will undoubtably miss your enthusiasm, passion, and flare for life.  Although you didn't summit, it's the experience you'll carry with you throughout the years.  I have a hard time remembering what it was like on the summit of Denali, but I do remember the countless laughs we all had in the posh tent, the many stories that were exchanged, and the disgusting water we were consuming by the end of the trip.  (Never again will I drink such dirty water!!!).  

Your story has inspired me to get off my tuff, pickup my ice ax and tackle another one of the seven summits.  In early 2011, I will take on Aconcagua, and look forward to getting your perspective on the trip at some point down the road.  

Congratulations on making it so far up the mountain...and incredible feat for anyone!

All the best,
Tristan Roffey

Tristan Roffey Canada | Reply

5/20/2010 2:55:37 PM #

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kally United States | Reply

5/24/2010 8:26:50 PM #

John,

I hope you are safe in sound back in the States by now with no signs of that terrible bug and with wonderful memories of another exciting adventure.  The Big E is not going anywhere and will be awaiting your return if you choose to give it another go.   You are a tough-as-nails guy with the courage to live life large and the wisdom to live to fight another day.  If that's not a winning combo (in life, in the stock market and on top of the world) I don't know what is!  Here's to living to fight another day!

Looking forward to the next round of "Olympic" games at Camp Rudolf.

Cheers,

Dave Goehl

Dave Goehl United States | Reply

6/6/2010 5:10:51 PM #

As you obviously know it's not about owning the real estate at the top; it's about effort and the climb.  The only time a mountaineer fails is if he or she doesn't come back. Well done.

Steve Lombardi United States | Reply

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